Connor Herson: Traditional at Heart

2023 · 22 min · Trad, Big Wall, Documentary · La Sportiva

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A short profile of Connor Herson, made by Double H Productions for La Sportiva. Herson was born into a climbing family and came up doing all of it: bouldering, sport routes, and the big wall trad climbing in Yosemite that made his name. The film sets his climbing against the other half of his life, a degree at Stanford, and treats the scheduling problem as the real subject rather than a footnote. This is an athlete portrait more than an ascent film, so expect context and conversation alongside the climbing. It is worth watching if you want to understand where one of the most complete young trad climbers in America came from, and how a person actually fits cutting-edge ascents around midterms.

Review

By Avi Flombaum, curator

An athlete portrait with a real subject, which is the scheduling problem. Connor Herson came up in a climbing family doing all of it, bouldering, sport and the Yosemite big wall trad that made his name, and this La Sportiva film by Double H Productions sets that against a degree at Stanford.

This is for anyone who wants to understand where one of the most complete young trad climbers in America came from. It is also for students who climb, because the film treats fitting cutting-edge ascents around midterms as the story rather than a footnote. Skip it if you want an ascent film. There is context and conversation here, and the climbing is illustration.

What works is the family thread. Herson's background explains his range, and the film lets it. What it gets wrong is that twenty-two minutes of context with no central climb leaves you wanting the climb. Herson's hardest ascents happen in other films.

Born From the Climbing Life: Episode 4, Black Diamond's record of his first ascent of Drifter's Escape in Squamish, proposed at 5.15a, is that film. Watch this one first for the person, then that one for the route. Together they make sense. Apart, this one is the thinner half.

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