FIRST FEMALE ASCENT of 'China Doll' (5.14a R) | ft. Heather Weidner
2017 · 20 min · Trad, Documentary
The film follows Heather Weidner’s first female ascent of China Doll, a 5.14a R traditional route in Upper Dream Canyon, Colorado. The route’s 5.14a grade combined with an R (runout) rating makes the climb as much a test of fall tolerance and mental control as of finger strength; the film spends time on both the climbing moves and the logistics of committing to insecure pro on steep rock. Director Jon Glassberg and writer Caroline Treadway structure the short around the ascent and a parallel personal narrative: Heather’s struggle with self‑confidence, gender expectations, and her relationship with husband Chris Weidner, who appears in the film. The filmmakers also note the ascent as the first female ascent of China Doll and present it as, in their words, placing Heather among the very small number of women to climb 5.14 trad. The piece is useful for viewers interested in how high‑end trad climbing and personal psychology intersect rather than for a how‑to on the moves themselves.
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