Ain't No Sunshine 7c+

Ain't No Sunshine is a steep sport route at Bomaderry Creek, part of the Nowra climbing area on the south coast of New South Wales, Australia. Graded 28 in the Ewbank system (7c+ French), it climbs a sustained, overhanging line starting below an obvious hanging arete, with continuous hard moves and no rest to the anchors. It is widely regarded as one of the best routes at its grade in the area, and the rock is known to feel noticeably harder when damp.

History

No confirmed first ascent record for Ain't No Sunshine turned up in the available route databases or climbing press. The line sits at Bomaderry Creek, one of the sectors that make up the broader Nowra climbing area, and is consistently listed among the area's best pitches in the 7c+ range. Angie Scarth-Johnson, who grew up climbing in the region, named it among her highlights from a season at Nowra around 2015, recalling that a year earlier she had found it very hard and could not even reach some of the moves.

On film

The short film 'Ain't No Sunshine' 28 7c+, Nowra Australia (2015) documents Angie Scarth-Johnson's attempts and eventual send of the route at Bomaderry Creek. The roughly 11 minute edit focuses on the redpoint process on a pitch she had struggled to link a year earlier, showing the narrow margin between falling and clipping the anchors on a sustained 7c+.