Big wall route
Dawn Wall 5.14d (VI 5.14d)
- Style
- Big wall route
- Grade
- 5.14d (VI 5.14d)
- Location
- El Capitan
- Country
- United States
- First ascent
- Tommy Caldwell & Kevin Jorgeson, 2015
The Dawn Wall climbs the southeast face of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, linking pitches of the Wall of Early Morning Light and Mescalito with new connecting terrain, for around 30 pitches in total. It is rated 5.14d (9a), and as a whole-route grade that means most of its length holds near the top of free climbing difficulty rather than one hard move on otherwise moderate rock. It is considered the world's first big-wall free route to reach 9a, sustained across thousands of feet of compact granite with thin edges and long reaches between rests.
History
Tommy Caldwell began exploring the wall's free potential in 2007 and was joined by Kevin Jorgeson in 2009, who became his most consistent partner on the project over several seasons. Caldwell freed pitch 15 in 2013 and pitch 14, the route's hardest, in November 2014. The pair began their continuous free push on December 27, 2014, and reached the summit on January 14, 2015, after 19 days on the wall, each leading or following every pitch free except for two variation pitches split between them. Adam Ondra made the first repeat in 2016, climbing it in 8 days while leading every pitch himself.
On film
Darkest Before Dawn: A Dawn Wall Story (2023) does not cover the first ascent. Instead it follows Siebe Vanhee's first season attempting the Dawn Wall, with Seb Berthe climbing alongside him, capturing the early stage of a multi-year project on the same wall Caldwell and Jorgeson made famous.
Films featuring Dawn Wall
1 film, free to watch.
Films of this climb, as references
- Darkest Before Dawn: A Dawn Wall Story (EpicTV, 2023, 19 min). Film page · Watch on YouTube ↗
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