Drifter's Escape 5.15a (9a+)

Drifter's Escape climbs a 20-meter pitch on the Stawamus Chief above Squamish, British Columbia, just left of the established route University Wall. It opens with two bolts protecting a V7 boulder problem, then moves onto traditional gear: insecure 5.13 laybacking, a heel-hook rest, and two sections estimated at V11 above small cams, including a dynamic pogo move. Connor Herson proposed the route at 5.15a (9a+), which would make it among the hardest traditionally protected pitches yet climbed.

History

Herson worked the route across roughly 20 sessions over two summers before completing the first ascent on July 14, 2025, his hardest climb to date. If the grade is confirmed, Drifter's Escape would be the first 5.15a (9a+) route protected primarily by traditional gear rather than bolts, though the two bolts protecting the opening boulder problem have drawn some debate within the climbing community over whether that affects its status as a pure trad line.

On film

Born From the Climbing Life: Episode 4, Drifter's Escape, The World's Hardest Trad Climb (2025) is Black Diamond's record of the ascent, shot by filmmaker Eric Bissell, and closes out a four-part series that builds toward this route, with the three earlier episodes framed as preparation for Herson's attempt here.