Orbayu 8c+/9a

Orbayu is a 500 meter, 13-pitch free line up the north face of the Naranjo de Bulnes (Picu Urriellu) in the Picos de Europa, Spain, starting from around 2,000 meters. Its first four pitches are new ground; the rest link into six pitches of the older aid route Mediterraneo, first climbed in 1980. Sources differ slightly on the crux grade, citing 8c+ (9a) or 8c-, but agree it comes low on the route, and the rest is sustained, exposed limestone climbing that leaves little room to recover before the next hard pitch.

History

Iker and Eneko Pou made the first free ascent on September 4, 2009, climbing the route in 8 hours on what they called one of the hardest projects of their careers, and at the time among the most difficult free climbs established on any mountain face. In spring 2014, Cédric Lachat and Nina Caprez attempted a repeat: Lachat completed it, while Caprez climbed every pitch free but not in one continuous push. Their attempt was documented on film by Mathieu Rivoire. The route's name refers to the fine, persistent mist that settles on the face, a condition its climbers have to work around as much as the difficulty itself.

On film

ORBAYU [full movie] a climbing Odyssey with Nina Caprez and Cédric Lachat (Petzl, 2016) documents the pair's spring 2014 attempt on the route, following their preparation and the psychological and physical demands of trying to link all 13 pitches on one of the Picos de Europa's biggest faces. The film centers on the balance between commitment and doubt that a route of this length and difficulty forces on a team, rather than on a single crux move.